Showing posts with label SWS Mountain Guides. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SWS Mountain Guides. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Week 9 Matt Dooley SWS Mountain Guides

7-19-11
My week begins with an exciting trip with 33 kids from all over the states on Mt. Shasta. I have a group of 8 girls who's ages are from 15-18. These girls are mostly from the south so altitude is going to be a problem. Today we are going to 50-50 at 9600 feet to set up base camp. Good news the marian has melted out enough so TIM and i will not have to dig the tents in. saves a lot of time and energy. Also, note to future self. this is a crazy trip, but make sure you check all tent bags to make sure they have fly, body and poles, don't go off of weight. We have one tent at base camp with no poles. We are lucky this is a big group and there are extra spots available in tents. I teach my very first ice axe/ crampon clinic today all by myself. covered the basics and went over everything pretty fast but i felt like everyone in the group understands and everyone can self arrest and self belay which is the biggest thing. Put the girls into bed at 7:30pm. Tim and i talk about my role for tomorrow and snow conditions.

7-20-11
summit day. Wake up at 2am. breakfast is ready for the girls at 2:45am. I have to put all the girls crampons and harnesses on. Sweet southern bells are very needy this morning. Tim has me stay at base camp to take another groups campers down the hill to Horse Camp. 2 bad cases of altitude sickness. Tim decides to short rope right out of camp to make it easier on the girls. Tim is wise and this allowed the girls to be dragged along at a slow pace to begin the process of truly waking up. As i am walking down to Horse Camp with these girls, one from Ohio and the other from Mississippi they begin to feel better. One sprains her ankle in her boot so the trip becomes even more slow. They are troopers! Tough, tough girls. I drop them off at Horse Camp to some of there camp directors who stayed there over night. Time for me to go back up the hill and possibly still summit today... its going to be a very long day if I have to go up the mountain above base camp.
Once i get back to base camp Tim is there and tells me to take a quick nap to recharge and than when i wake up we will pack camp and split. This is music to my ears! One of our girls is in another group going for the summit, the rest are at base camp due to altitude. Tim took the girls up to 12,400 feet and they were done. Watched the sun come up and headed down. One brave girl says she will take all of the sag bags down, i feel she will soon regret this.
Down to Bunny Flat at 4:00pm and i have to wait around for other groups to get back so i can collect gear and make sure if anything is missing we give JH a bill. Back at SWS office at 5:30 put stuff away and get the hell out of dodge.

7-21-11
organize back room to make sure all the gear is labeled and put in the proper place. I detailed the back room as the climbing season is winding down pretty fast now. Looks spic and spam. One tent (my group) that didn't have the poles i now have to either find poles or make and chop a set of poles to fit to make due. I am a lucky dog today as i was able to find a set of poles, they are supper stiff but will work for this tent. set up tent outside to ensure poles will work. Tim K arrived so I was able to install a shower curtain, towel hooks, and entry way strip to cover the tile/carpet seem.

7-25-11
Start to go over every single tent in the inventory (about 30) making sure there are no holes and all poles are in working condition. Clean back room and organize helmets and ice axes.

7-26-11
more tents, and brought my screw gun down to put a few holes in the tile to mount the all important toilet paper dispenser. Put one more coating of tile sealer on the floor. I am getting very excited that i only have one more week to go.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Week 8 Matt Dooley SWS Mountain Guides

7-12-11
Today the bathroom is complete and ready to be used to its full potential! I finished installing all of the small detail work like the shower controls and various knobs.

7-14-11
packed bags and duffel's for trip preparation for a trip I will be going on with Crit tomorrow. New tents arrived today from BD. Squall "E" & "F" put guide lines on and labeled body, fly, and stuff sack accordingly. Grocery store run to make food for trip. Today was the first time I was fully able to see how everything will effect a trip, and it will be my trip with Crit. Detailed prep work for food and to make sure we calculate the correct amount of fuel to bring up is crucial. Fuel is a big catch 22, if you don't bring enough you will not be able to melt snow down for water and cook food, if you bring too much well you just have to carry extra weight, and no one like extra weight! Mountain guides are ounce counters. The saying goes ounces leads to pounds when it comes to shaving undesired weight off the pack.

7-15-11
meet clients at office to go over packing and do a pack check of what the appropriate clothing should be. Climb to 50/50. (9,600 feet) 50/50 being about the halfway point to summit. Camp on snow. Melt water, Now is the time i am glad i spent the detailed prep work for the trip for food. Tonight's meal mountain style burritos chosen by myself. The meal was a success! clients really enjoyed it. put clients in bed early, talk with Crit about the upcoming summit day.

7-16-11
On Shasta, ice axe/crampon clinic. easy day.

7-17-11
breakfast. melt water. Crampon/ice axe clinic with other various knowledge from Crit with a question and answer period. dinner and bed time to summit tomorrow. clients are reasonably self sufficient but shouting time like we have 2 minutes till we are rolling is a great tool.7-16-11
wake up 2:00 am/ get moving on breakfast melt water for ascent. get moving and going at 3:15am with headlamps up the mountain. make it to Helen at 4am. Crit short ropes clients in to him. i decide to 'free ranger' it for the day. clients don't have this option. make red banks just after sun up (12,600 feet). continue up short hill to misery hill, than summit hill. On top of summit at 10:15-10:30am. take a few pictures and get the hell off to a sheltered area. winds today are a consistent 50ish+ miles per hour gusts. I am thankful for good gear, but face, and hands are almost numb even with good gear. part of being a mountain guide. Now the descent... Back at office at around 4:30pm. long day but this is typical of a summit day.

Crit has taught me a lot of great things on this trip. It takes someone who does this day in and day out to teach me the newbie all of the hidden tricks of the trade. Dealing with clients is the hardest part for me. the hard skills like climbing and crampon technique i feel i have down well enough, the soft skills is a learning process i need to improve on.

7-18-11
back at the office. Prep JH Ranch trip with Tim Peterson. 33 kids will be going up the mountain tomorrow, this is a crazy group to deal with. I will be back on the mountain tomorrow this time for a two day trip.

Friday, July 8, 2011

Week 7 Matt Dooley SWS Mountain Guides

Week seven begins my special project week, along with the progression of learning from Dave.

For my special project at SWS Mountain Guides, I will be remodeling the bathroom. I enjoy laying tile, the best part for me about this special project is I will get to see something that goes from outdated to showroom quality in just a few days. SWS only has one bathroom and this bathroom is not the cleanest looking bathroom even when it is clean. At this current state on the bathroom there is a retro baby blue toilet, stained linoleum flooring, outdated facets, creaky flooring under the shower, and a terrible paint job inside. By remodeling this bathroom for my special project it will provide clients and staff a cleaner more modern feeling inside the building.

I will be in charge for my special project during the remodeling period by assisting in the demolition phase, and when the time comes to tiling the whole bathroom I will be the boss (as I am the only tile guy in the building), and will come up with all of the detailed tile designs. I am anticipating that this bathroom remodel will take 5 days total. I am anticipating that the demolition phase will only take one day, along with moving the plumbing around in the shower. Day two will consist of putting hardy backer on the walls and floor to begin laying tile down on the main floor surrounding the bathroom vanity and toilet. Day 3 of this special project will be tiling the shower and doing finishing details on tile work and grouting the floor in. Day 4 will be to finish grouting the shower in, install a new toilet, and put tile sealer on the floor while putting in a new bathroom vanity. Day 5 will be to put tile sealer in the shower and do bead molding
around the vanity to complete this special project.

The founder of SWS Tim Keating is supplying materials for this bathroom remodel. Tim is shopping around for the best deals on tile, vanities, toilets and everything needed to do this remodel as cheap as possible. Tim has already purchased a earth tone tile with a decorative strip to match. I will be supplying the tools in regards to the tile work. I have my own tile saw, tile circular saw, and multiple grouting tools to help me on this project. I am excited to do what I love to do in regards to tile work to give SWS a new and improved bathroom.

So far the bathroom is right on schedule and is looking awesome!

Week 6 Matt Dooley SWS Mountain Guides

6-29-11 - 6/30/11
My first trip up on Shasta with lead guide Brady. Today started with meeting clients at the office and doing a pack check to ensure clients have proper and adequate gear. Lucky me, my pack only weighs in at 56 pounds today! In the parking lot at bunny flat at 7,000 feet to start the day. Weather is misting rain and visibility is cut down. Brady makes the call to camp at horse camp instead of 50/50 due to weather and snow conditions. I am beginning to process what is going through his head as a guide. Brady makes the right call as the clients are beginning to be soaked from the rain. We teach the clients how to self arrest/self belay, crampon techniques, and how to use the ice axe properly.

We dig tents in for the night, cook dinner and go over the trip plan for tomorrow. Put clients in bed at 7:30 and I walk off with Brady to discuss my role, and weather for tomorrow's day. In bed at 8:30. Wake up at 12:00. Get water going for breakfast, make sure clients have all the proper gear. On our way up the mountain at 1:00am. We stop at 3:30-4:00. We hear water peculating under the snow, literally sounds like we are on top of a river. Snow conditions are bad. we had snow two days previous and it has been supper hot on the mountain following the snow. Consistent rock fall as we hike, and its only going to get worse about 10,000 feet in the gully. Avalanche danger is high due to the weather and snow conditions. We make the call to turn around. It will be unsafe to continue. arrive back to camp just in time to see the sun rise. Sleep for 1:30 min and pack up and head off the mountain.

This trip taught me how rough mountaineering can be. Good Black Diamond equipment is essential! Glad I made the investment. it is a completely different world up at elevation and in the snow. conditions can be unpredictable and on this trip you have to absolutely put safety 100% first and put making the summit 14,289 feet second.

7-1-11
Cleaned MSR stoves from the JH Ranch trip. Needed to be done badly. Tent repair from JH ranch trip and look over all tent bodies for major problems. Fixed holes with seem grip.

7-2-11
Arrived at SWS to do a porter run for today. A porter run is when a client purchases the option of having someone carry all or on this case most of their gear one way (up to 50lbs) my trip would be up the hill. I skinned up to 50/50 on skis dropped her gear off and skied down the hill. Crappy snow conditions, pure slush, porter run took all day. skiing down Shasta even though the snow was crap was by far the best part of the day. Cleaned house.

7-3-11
Returning clients, unpack tents, hang to dry, look over, pack up and put in back room. Worked in the herb garden. Planted some wild onion that i brought from home. Washed rope. All ropes are now washed in the line up.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Week 5 Matt Dooley SWS Mountain Guides

6-21-11
Made a recycle run with Brady today. Are awesome sponsor RECHARGE electrolyte sports drink is most responsible for this, and I am most thankful for it. I got on top of the roof for a little annual maintenance. Cleaned gutters by hand and took the blower to make the roof look cleaned off and flush all of the fine dust and leaves i missed out by hand. Side walks needed blown off too. The front herbal garden needed watered and i pulled some weeds that made the front of the building look very unattractive. The client is so judgmental, the best possible first impression is what will land you the tip at the end of the trip along with hard work. MSR high altitude stoves gutted and gone over to ensure cleanliness and functionality. Bought insect spray today for spider control when i come back to work after my days off

6-24-11
New Adventure Medical Kits (AMK) arrived in mail, printed off injury form to put inside and put in medical list. Also a new BD Storm tent arrived in the mail today. Cut new guidelines, labeled body, fly and stuff sack. Put guidelines on tent with special knots. Cleaned house, vacuumed entire house, trash, bathroom cleaned, dishes, recycle in back trash bin. Put names and email addresses in constant contact for Tim to send out information on future SWS seminars. Prepped gear and filled all empty MSR fuel bottles. Copied list of upcoming event on calender with trip name, lead guides, assistant guides to send to Tim and Dave to confirm. Washed 2 Shasta short ropes to make clean and to make them last longer, also checked for any torn areas in the sheath.

6-25-11
Car decal removal from Dave's company car. Decals are on the way. Water front plants and pull a few weeds really fast. Clean up guide house.

6-27-11
Decals arrived, clean glass really good and put on back windows of Dave's car. Turned out great and this was a fun project for me. More constant contact information to be inserted on the computer for clients. Prepped the JH Ranch trip with ice axe's, helmets, and beaners for youth and camera men. Met with JH Ranch crew with Dave to go over kids packs and equipment to tell them yea, or nea on what to bring on the trip. Made sure all medical paperwork was completed and signed correctly with minors parents signatures as well. Washed 4 ropes, hang dry, and coil and hang up to organize in the back room.

Week 4 Matt Dooley SWS Mountain Guides

6-16-11
Booking reservations of clients, names, dates, routes, billing info into the company computer under a program called Book'em 5. Go through Adventure Medical Fundamental kits to make sure nothing is missing or running low. If low or missing add to medical kit. Went online to print the list of items in the kits that come standard from the factory and laminated this sheet as a future reference to easily recognize missing items.

6-17-11
Had a great ice axe clinic today. My skills are improving and i am becoming a better hands on teacher of the material in this seminar class. Clean house and organize back room from crampons, harnesses, and helmets from today's clinic.

6-18-11
I experienced frustration today at the very beginning of the ice axe clinic. People showed up late i had to deal with it. I had a miss communication between Tim as we were one ice axe, and crampon short, so i had to give up my personal stuff for the client. I didn't like this, made me look bad, but in the end all of the clients went from knowing nothing about mountaineering to knowing some of the most use full techniques that will assist them on there next SWS adventure or personal adventure on the mountain. Talked with Tim more about the special project. Crunched a few numbers, ideas, and layout. Cant wait.

6-19-11
There are 3 North Face Trango 3.1 tents that are all in non working condition with different causes from ruptured fly's, tent bodies, and split zippers. My goal for the day is to get one working tent out of these three by using the best body, fly, and poles while if needed patching and repairing with seem grip or whatever necessary for the upcoming JH trip. I am hanging around waiting for some returning trips to help put away and keep the back room organized. I called Fed Ex for a pick up for tomorrow to send back some BD tents under warranty.

6-20-11
Today was errand day, Pages downtown, and went to the city council of Mt. Shasta to drop off paperwork for Dave. All of the fuel bottles need to be refilled from trips over the weekend. I prepped some trips for Whitney. Whitney trips are harder to prep as I have to send more harnesses, ice axe and crampons than necessary to fit the undermined client size. Laminated guide wilderness passes, and summit passes for Shasta.

Friday, June 10, 2011

Week 2, Matt Dooley

Several trips came back from this past weekend. Lots of tents to repair and lots of stories to be shared. The mountain was brutal for the guides. I really hope summer will come soon. Client interaction, is harder than it seems i am learning. It is if it is a secret to mingling with clients. All of the guides here at SWS almost rely on their talking with clients and soft flow in exchange of words to get a tip just to help survive for the week. Brady introduced me to SMART goals during a pack check. It is a helpful term to teach and to learn. My nick name is defiantly sticking. I just received some new mountaineering gear and have been trying it out and using it to practice on my own time, cant wait to get up on the mountain. See ya next week.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Week One, SWS, Matt Dooley

Week at SWS Mountain Guides was a success! The learning curve is steep, repairs on equipment is constant coming in from the guides trips. Tents take forever to repair. SWS ordered lots of new equipment and gear this week, i had the honor of labeling with red tape and using a Dremal tool to carve name and size into ice axes and back country shovels. When i first came to SWS the gear room was a mess, just within the first week I have been able to organize the room and equipment better. The techniques that the on staff professionals know is teaching me a lot of time saving skills for his job and teaching me what to do when I get out on the mountain. So far i am having a great time here. I feel appreciated and i am starting to fire right back with the intern jokes. I even picked up a new nick name, Hazmatt. 6 groups are heading out so when they come back there will be a ton of gear to look over and repair. I was able to help Tim with a crampon and ice axe clinic on saturday. Once again his was a steep learning curve but Tim is a great teacher and took me aside and even put me in charge of some drills for self arresting. This is literly the tip of the ice burg for mountaineering basics. I have to spend some time in the snow on my own to learn the required skills before i can possibly shadow a summit attempt on the mountain. Without basic to somewhat knowledgable skills my life and others would be in danger on the mountain. Brady a lead guide was out on a trip and came back and said the low tempature with wind chill was (-15) out. Wear your puffy, and your parka this week, a storm is a coming. This is Hazmatt signing out for now.